COLOR EVALUATION IN BOTANICAL PRINTING ON WOOL FABRIC USING TEAK LEAVES WITH AND WITHOUT MORDANTS

Hsiu-Hua Hsieh* and Cheng-Min Tsai

Department of Visual Arts and Design, Nanhua University, Chiayi, Taiwan, R.O.C.

*Corresponding author: Hsiu-Hua Hsieh, selene_tw@yahoo.com

Keywords: Eco printing, mordanting technique, botanical printing, CIELab, CIELCh

Poster presentation video: https://youtu.be/tjTz06pu7zY

This study analyzes the color effect in botanical printing with and without mordants on washed wool fabrics using teak leaves. Wool fabrics were serially digitized, and images were captured using a digital camera with a color management process through a color calibrator and color checker. The reference images were converted from RGB to CIEL*C*h color space, analyzing the interaction effect of variables. The independent variables included four different mordant treatments, i.e., a mordant containing aluminum potassium sulfate, another containing ferrous sulfate, a combo of the two mordants, and without a mordant. The dependent variables included the visual assessment of pattern clarity, color feeling, and the objective consequences of color analysis using L* and C* values. The control variables included the mordanting technique, wool fabric, the upper and lower side of the leaf, and the size and maturity of the teak leaf. The results show that the different types of mordant treatments differentially affected the color appearance and the intensity of the obtained pigments. The upper or lower side of a leaf and the size and maturity of a leaf also affected color appearance in botanical printing. The C* values for botanical printing using the ferrous sulfate mordant were higher than those for botanical printing using other mordants. Specifically, the average C* value for botanical printing without the mordant was close to that obtained using the mordant containing only aluminum potassium sulfate. The appropriate brightness and saturation of color patterns are preferred in botanical printing, and the results of this study provide an application and reference of color appearance in botanical printing practice on wool fabric.